Sailing Techniques

With the rig properly tuned you will find the J/27 a very exciting and enjoyable boat to sail in any weather. You’re going to find that both steering and sail adjustments will be the major factors determining speed around the course. And to help you extract the highest possible performance out of this rocket ship we’ll describe the sail trim decisions and combinations that have been found fastest through testing and experience.

STEERING:
In light air it is necessary to keep the boat moving at all costs, especially under 3-4 knots apparent, As the breeze increases to over 7-10 knots apparent, the boat will rapidly reach hull speed upwind, even in a short chop....its rig is big for such an easily driven hull. Consequently, once up to speed upwind, sail a scalloped course and don’t hesitate to "feather up" in the puffs to point higher.

When the breeze gets over 12-14 apparent, there’s no question you will begin burning off power, so don’t worry about "feathering (when the windward telltales dance constantly) as you should be able to maintain boat speed and point extremely high.

GENOA TRIM:
In light air, 0-6 knots apparent, the #1 Genoa lead should be set so that the foot of the genoa is about 6-8" off both the chain plates and the top spreader. The halyard should be eased so wrinkles form along the luff. The backstay should be eased all the way to keep the jib full. As the breeze increases the backstay will need to be tightened as will the jib sheet tension...bring the sail into both the top spreader and the chainplates so it’s 4. off. The lead may change one hole aft as the breeze gets to about 6 knots. Keep the draft around 40%: adjust halyard tension properly and keep the luff lightly wrinkled.

At 7-12 knots apparent set the jib lead so the foot is 2’ from the chainplates and 4" from the top spreader. As the wind increases continually increase backstay tension. Maximum backstay puts the bridle blocks about level with the stern pulpit. Never trim the Genoa any closer than 2-4" from the top spreader with the foot touching the chainplate. Keep the draft around 35% in a breeze: this will provide the acceleration needed in waves and will flatten the leech for a clean exit....an extremely important consideration as this opens the slot and allows a vang-sheeted main to be dropped to leeward.

If you are caught with the genoa up in some conditions where you’re overpowered and you don’t have to far to go, try barberhauling the Genoa outboard to the rail to open up the slot. You’ll be amazed at how much easier the boat is to handle at the high end of the Genoa range.

The #3 Genoa should always be led so the luff breaks evenly and a small crease begins to appear in the foot. In very heavy air heeling can be reduced by basing the jib sheet and moving the jib car one hole aft. In very heavy air, 25+ knots, barberhaul the jib lead halfway to the rail.

NOTE: if you’re ever stuck with the wrong jib choice and you have less than a 1 ½ miles to go to the weather mark, it is usually prudent to simply move the jib leads and adjust the backstay to either power up or depower...unless of course there’s an extreme velocity change. i.e.. SQUALLS

Also, always reduce your headsails from the #1 to the #3 before you reef the mainsail. The boat is amazingly stiff and even in 30+ knots will sail with the #3 and a full main.

MAIN TRIM:
The main should be trimmed so the top and second batten up are roughly parallel with the boom. The exceptions are very light and very heavy air. In both cases the leech must be opened up considerably; in light air to prevent stalling and in heavy air to reduce weather helm and heeling moment.

In a fractional rigged boat the main is a very critical adjustment as it represents a significant amount of horsepower. In light air bring boom up to centerline but as soon as you get any breeze where over half the crew gets on the rail you must drop the traveler to centerline... otherwise the leech will act as an "air-brake". Expect to see about one foot of backwind in lighter air and up to 2 feet in over 10 knots.

As the breeze increases resort to vang-sheeting with the traveler cleated in the middle. Trim the main hard into centerline and pull the vang as tight as possible. You then use the mainsheet to ease and trim for the puffs. Vang sheeting provides a more automatic release of power from the main leech as the main is eased and it enables you to retain pointing ability.

NOTE: If you plan to sail a lot in a windy area and resort to vang sheeting often, it is recommended that you ‘sleeve’ the long J/27 boom internally 3’ aft and 2’ forward of the vang bale as this will help prevent bending or possible breakage.

BACKSTAY ADJUSTMENT:
The backstay controls both mast bend and headstay sag. As the mast bends the main flattens and the forestay tightens, flattening the jib. Proper adjustment of the backstay is essential for sail shape and power.

Notice that the backstay adjuster system is led to both sides of the cockpit so either the Genoa or main trimmer can adjust it for puffs and seas.

The backstay should be adjusted for both wind and sea conditions. Normally, no backstay should be applied until the breeze is over 6 knots apparent. Backstay tension should then be continually applied to control the shape of both the genoa and main

Always keep sufficient power in the Genoa to handle the waves...the boat loves to be ‘powered up’ in choppy conditions.

NOTE: When the backstay adjusts, the main, Cunningham, and vang tensions need to be rechecked and adjusted. Especially, when rounding the weather and leeward marks.

SPINNAKER TRIM:
Flying the spinnaker is fairly straightforward on these boats. Reaching should keep the pole end down unless its a ridiculously tight reach. Downwind you should strive for projected area by constantly playing the pole. Keep the clews even. And "ventilate" your sailplan...when you feel slow off the wind, always harden up to get wind to flow across your sails...they will pull harder and you’ll ultimately make better VMG (i.e.. speed down the course) .

On gibing angles downwind, the boat sails best at 150 deg. apparent wind angle up to 8-9 knots apparent wind. Between 8-12 knots apparent wind drop down about 5 deg. apparent wind angle for every one knot increase in apparent wind until you are dead downwind.

GOOD LUCK!!