Tuning Guide

Your J/27 rig has been designed to be strong, simple, easy-to-care-for, and easy to tune. Proper rig preparation will ensure you of a hassle-free and fast sailing season. Read these instructions thoroughly as it will prevent unnecessary headaches later, prolonging both the life of your sails and rigging. and will get you around the course faster.

EQUIPMENT: To make your rigging and tuning job go quicker be sure you have the following handy

1) Crescent wrenches
2) Phillips and slot head screwdrivers
3) Needle nose and regular pliers
4) Vice grips
5) Wire cutters
6) Tap and die set
7) Drill and drill bits
8) Hacksaw
9) Round and flat files
10) Pop rivet gun and 3/16" rivets
11) Hammer
12 ) Center punch
13) Measurement tape- 50’ and pencil
14) Duct tape, white rigging tape, white elect. Tape
15) Cotter pins
16) Electrical kit- connectors, etc.
17) Silicone
18) S.S. seizing wire

BEFORE STEPPING MAST:

1) Be sure that all sharp edges on mast hardware is filed smooth. Look at spreader ends, spreader root, mast lights, blocks, and exit sheave cages.

2) Silicone all cotter pins on mast and tape thoroughly

3) Silicone leading edge of spreader root on mast to prevent both halyards from getting "pinched" and the headsails from ripping.

4) Put black rubber plugs into holes above Gibb T-terminal shroud connectors.

5) Fit mast collar ring and sponge rubber mast collar gasket ring (both with flanges down) on the mast.

6) Ensure all halyards are properly run along with pole lift and boom topping lift.

7) Install Windex or other apparent wind angle device, mount on backstay crane and wire a light if you plan to do night sailing.

8) Install and wire mast for electronics to run an extra wire up the mast at this time…will save you aggravation later should you want to add mast electronics like antennas, etc.

9) Check headstay length and ensure toggle is attached... this will give proper amount of rake. The rig should have 15" or so of rake, measured behind the mast on the cabin trunk with a plumb dropped from the main halyard. Otherwise, check the headstay turnbuckle barrel...only 1" of thread or less should show inside either end .

10) Fit TUFF- LUFF headsail system. Ensure that luff entry for jibs is at least 3 feet up headstay...this will make changing headsails easier.

11) Check the position of your mast-step. It should set according to this criteria:

A. For full main with large luff curve- put mast-step in max aft position. 6 ½" from aft bulkhead to back of mast and 10 ¾" from front of mast to forward bulkhead. This will induce maximum pre-bend in the mast and compensate for the fullness in the mainsail luff round (3-4").

B. For flatter main with small luff curve- put mast step in max forward position. 7 ½" from aft bulkhead to back of mast and 9 ¾’ from front of mast to forward bulkhead. This will straighten the mast to compensate for a minimal luff curve (1-2").

STEPPING THE MAST:

1 ) REMEMBER to have someone below deck when the mast is lowered through the mast partner to put the bottom half of the deck ring on (flange up) before it drops onto the step. Otherwise you’ll have to pull the mast up again.

AFTER STEPPING THE MAST:

1) Connect all stays with turnbuckles fully extended. Hand tighten shrouds.

2) CAUTION—Don’t try to drill the holes in the deck for the mast collar before you’re ready to do so.

3) Center the mast head athwartships by holding the centerline jib halyard under even tension out to a point on either rail, outside the chainplates and equidistant from the bow.

4) Hand tighten mast into column (straighten).

TIGHTENING THE RIG:

l ) Straighten the rig from the bottom up. Take up even turns on the lowers until the mast begins to invert. Then pull down hard on the backstay purchase so the upper shrouds loosen considerably. Take up even turns on the uppers, then release the backstay to check straightness of mast. Double check position of mast head with centerline jib halyard.

2) Set your rig tension for moderate winds and ensure your headstay has the 1" of turnbuckle screw exposed within the barrel this will give you enough leeway to loosen the headstay for lighter airs and tighten it for a breeze. Check rig tension with a "LOOS TENSION GAUGE". They should read:

NOTE: The intermediate shrouds should be adjusted after the upper and the lowers have been set. You may find that the tension on the intermediates will vary, so be sure to double-check the straightness of the mast.

3) Tighten backstay so the bridle blocks return to with in 6" of the connector plate when released.

FINISHING OFF:

l) Tape all turnbuckles thoroughly after cotter-pinning the shrouds. It’s preferable to install a turnbuckle boot over the upper shrouds as this-will prevent chafe on the foot of the jibs and will also make the jib run freer during tacks.

2 ) Wedge the mast in the hole to ensure a straight mast sideways.

3) Now drill the holes through the mast collar casting. If your drill cannot be held vertical, get a flexible extender with smaller chuck housing or drill from underneath.

4) Be sure to place the small triangles on either side of the bottom collar with the bolts provided to couple the upper and lower collars. Finally, drill through the mast to connect the two triangles which locks the deck to the mast.

5) After sailing in good breeze for 10-15 hours be sure to retune your rig as you will have to compensate for wire stretch.