GENOA TRIM:
In light air the Light #1 genoa lead should be set so that the foot of the genoa is about 6-8" off both the chain plates and the top spreader. The backstay should be eased all the way to keep the jib full. As the breeze increases the backstay will need to be tightened and the jib sheet will need trimming. In the upper ranges of the Light # 1 the foot should be about 4" off both the top spreader and the chainplates. The lead may change one hole aft as the breeze gets to about 6 knots.

At 8-10 knots apparent you should change to the Heavy #1 (if a 155%) and at 10-14 knots apparent to a smaller Heavy #1 (if a 145%). The lead for this sail should be set so the foot is 2" from the chainplates and 4" from the top spreader. As the wind increases to the top end of the sail, continually increase backstay tension. Maximum backstay puts the bridle blocks about level with the stem pulpit. The genoa should never be trimmed any closer than 2-4" from the top spreader with the foot touching the chainplate. The J/29 will carry the 155% Heavy #1 to 18-20 knots apparent and the 145% Heavy #1 to 20-24 knots apparent.

The #2 Genoa on the J/29 varies in size from a 130% to 140%. These sails are very fast in smooth water at 20-25 knots apparent and in choppy water at 22-27 apparent. This sail should be trimmed tighter in flat water, about 1-2" from the top spreader, and looser in choppy water, about 3-4". If you feel under-powered with this combo do not hesitate to go back to the Heavy #1. The boat is very powerful and likes to carry large amounts of sail.

The #3 Genoa should always be led so the luff breaks evenly and a small crease begins to appear in the foot. In very heavy air heeling can be reduced by easing the jib sheet and moving the jib car one hole aft.

NOTE if you’re ever stuck with the wrong jib choice and you have less than a 11/2 miles to go to the weather mark, it it usually prudent to simply move the jib leads and adjust the backstay to either power up or depower .. unless of course there’s an extreme velocity change.

You should always reduce your headsails from the #1 to the #3 before you reef the mainsail. The boat is amazingly stiff and even at 30-35 knots will sail with the #3 and a full main.

MAINSAIL TRIM:
The main should be rimmed so the top and second batten up are roughly parallel with the boom. The exceptions are very light and very heavy air. In both cases the leech must be opened up considerably; in light air to prevent stalling and in heavy air to reduce weather helm and heeling moment.

In light air the traveler should be rimmed up to bring the boom up to centerline. Otherwise, set the traveler so there’s one foot of backwind in the main in moderate air and up to 2 feet in heavy air.

Ile vang should be snug in light to medium air and tightened considerably in heavy air. This enables you to vang sheet on either the masthead or fractional rigs.

On the masthead rig the main is relatively flat because of the small amount of mast bend that can be induced into the rig. In the upper wind range of the Heavy #1 and always with the #2 and #3 it is necessary to use the check Ms. These should be positioned on the forward end of the genoa track and tightened just enough to bring the main back into shape. You will begin to see overbend wrinkles in the main if the check stays are not used. The checkstays also help add tension to the headstay which gives better shape to the genoas. Constant attention should be paid to working the traveler; if the helm loads up, ease the traveler, and if it goes "fight", rim it up quickly.

On the fractional rig the main is even more critical to adjustment as it represents a significant amount of its horsepower. In light air bring boom up to centerline but as soon as you get any breeze where over half the crew gets on the rail you must drop the traveler to centerline... otherwise the leech will act as an "air-brake".

As the breeze increases resort to vang-sheeting with the traveler cleated in the middle. Trim the main hard into centerline and puff the vang as tight as possible. You then use the mainsheet to ease and trim for the puffs.

Vang sheeting provides a more automatic release of power from the main leech as the main is eased and it enables you to retain pointing ability.

NOTE: It is recommended that you "sleeve" the long J/29 boom internally 3’ aft and 2’ forward of the vang bale as this will help prevent bending or possible breakage.

BACKSTAY ADJUSTMENT:
The backstay controls both mastbend and headstay sag. As the mast bends the main flattens and the forestay tightens, flattening the jib. Proper adjustment of the backstay is essential for sail shape and power.

Be sure to modify the backstay adjuster system so that it is led to both sides of the cockpit. Then either the genoa or main trimmer can adjust it for puffs and seas.

The backstay should be adjusted for both wind and sea conditions. Normally no backstay should be applied until the breeze is over 6 knots apparent. Backstay tension should then be continually applied to control the shape of both the genoa and main.

The masthead rig can use the checkstays to retain mainsail shape as the backstay tension is increased.

In smooth water at the upper ranges of the Heavy #1 the backstay should be even with the stem pulpit ... this is max’d. With the #2 and #3 genoas the backstay should always be at least halfway on .... and adjusted as with the #I to control both headstay and mainsail shape.

NOTE: Always keep sufficient power in the genoas to handle the waves ... the boat loves to be "powered up" in choppy conditions.

NOTE 2: When the backstay is adjusted, the main and vang tensions need to be rechecked and adjusted. Especially, when rounding the weather and leeward marks.

SPINNAKER TRIM:
Flying the spinnaker is fairly straightforward on these boats. When reaching you should keep the pole end down unless its a ridiculously tight reach. Downwind you should strive for projected area by constantly playing the pole. Keep the clews even. And "ventilate" your sailplan ... when you feel slow off the wind, always harden up slightly to get wind to flow across your sails ... they will pull harder and you’ll ultimately make better VMG.